A Visit to Zaire, July 1983

8. Wednesday July 20^th

Back to the Capital

We set out this morning about 9 o’clock. First visitors (my namesake and his parents) had arrived at 7 am., with gifts. We took with us Tata Mpia (the musician), so it was a full car and a full boot. Bernard sat in the front, so he could see the bumps in the roads and “brace himself”.

We called at Mbanza Ngungu a little after 10, where we were given refreshments. Then on to Kinshasa, where we called on Kimbangi’s uncle (whom we had met on our arrival) and his family [picture 35]; he very generously gave us two carvings. We visited 3 craft shop at the rear of their home, where Rosalie and Kimbangi had bought their ivory wedding rings; it was interesting to see the carvings being made and decorated.

Then, after a photo, we came on to the EMS HO, and in the Norths’ flat had a picnic lunch that we had brought with us [picture 36]. Bernard rested, while Rosalie, Kimbangi and I went to the Air Zaire office to confirm our flights, then to the Catholic centre for some gifts. We had to be at the airport at 8pm for the 10.30 flight. This is a stopping house for all people coming and going, and there are many of them. And we collected a pile of letters to bring home and post from Heathrow ~ a chance to do for others what they have so often done for us.

The airport

What a do we had at the airport. Rosalie and Kimbangi took us there, as she wanted to spare Andrew North, who has so many such trips. But he advised us to take his dog, as a guard for the car while we were in the airport. As soon as we arrived in the car park, just after 8 o’clock, we knew what he meant; before we could get out of the car, we were surrounded by 5 or 6 youths anxious to carry our baggage (for a tip, of course), and as we got the bags out we had to hold on to them for all we were worth, or they would have had their way.

Inside, all was chaos and noise. Rosalie talked us through the customs quite quickly (in Zaire you are liable to pay duty coming in, AND going out!!). But then, we had to look up the passenger list and find the numbers against our names ~ Kimbangi helped there ~ then go on to a desk where just one person was inspecting tickets and passports and handing out boarding cards. There was a stampede (there is no knowledge of a queue in Zaire), as this person was taking some 20 minutes per customer. Everybody “was pushing to the front, and some were trying to hand in documents over the heads of those in front; it was far worse than a Rugby scrum! Bernard tried hard to stay with us, but the noise and heat and general tension were too much and he had to go outside in the cool evening air. Kimbangi did valiantly, and when he was at the desk Bernard handed him the documents. But all this took over 2 hours, and it was quite clear that the plane would not take off at 10.30 as scheduled. But then, nothing happens on time there.

Then it was a case (pun??) of getting our luggage checked in. But in the commotion, Kimbangi had only one boarding card instead of two; he maintained he had been given only one ~ the official maintained there had been two ~ and Kimbangi persevered until he had obtained a duplicate (we later found that the snag was that Bernard and I couldn’t sit together). The other checks went through smoothly; a passport check (the second time), then we had to say our farewells to Rosalie and Kimbangi, next security (hand luggage looked into), and money ~ here Bernard told the official that we were the father and brother of a missionary, and it worked! We were waved on! Then a wait in the comparative peace and comfort of the departure lounge (there had been no chairs in the previous part of the airport), and we were walking over the tarmac to the plane, and were able to wave to Rosalie and Kimbangi in the spectators’ balcony. The 10.30 plane left at 12.30.

Thursday July 21^st

The return journey

We were served a meal at 12.50, but a full meal in the small hours doesn’t appeal. Fortunately there was a choice. We were banking on the plane going direct to Brussels, as on the outward journey, and we might have made our connection to London; but no, it had to stop at Rome.

Then on across the Alps towards Belgium ~ and as Bernard was taking a photo of snow-capped peaks [picture 37], a little girl of 11 or 12 asked him where the plane was going to; he said “to Brussels”, and she burst into tears. It turned out that she and her younger brother were travelling unaccompanied to Rome, but their father (a USA diplomat, who should have known better) had not registered them as unaccompanied minors ~ they were fast asleep all through the landing at Rome, and they thought that Rome was the only destination. Fortunately, there was a young man sitting near them, who worked in the Air travel industry, and who said he “had some influence with Air Zaire” ~ he got the cabin crew to radio ahead, and when we landed in Brussels they were taken in care, to await the next flight back to Rome. Bernard talked to them, and finally persuaded them that a free ride two ways over Europe was a bonus!

We landed at Brussels just as our connection was taking off, so had three hours to wait for the next flight. The Sabena desk was very helpful, and Bernard’s two weeks practising French conversation came into its own again. He managed to ring Betty Woodward (our minister’s wife), with a message to be relayed to Katie, who by that time was on her way to Heathrow. He also got the airport to send a Telex to Heathrow, as a second string to the bow. We arrived finally at 2 o’clock, and after all the formalities (we were the first people from our flight out of customs) we met Katie, and she drove us home, where we arrived about 3.30 ~ over 30 hours after we left Kimpese yesterday morning.

Epilogue

It has been a big adventure for us both, and will be a talking point for some time to come. It was quite long enough to be away from Katie and the boys, who have been enjoying or enduring a heatwave since we have been away. But we are glad that we went, to become part of a very wonderful occasion, and to experience at first-hand some of the people and places that Rosalie has talked and written about over the years.

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